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Corked?

One of my early memories as I was beginning to appreciate wine was my first lesson in cork taint. I had just sipped from a freshly poured glass of red wine, replying with the standard polite, beginner’s head nod as I tried like hell to identify the “cherry” and “plum” flavors I had heard so much about. Meanwhile, my seasoned co-worker sniffed her glass and replied, “Ick. This wine is corked!” and proceeded to toss the wine down the kitchen sink without even sipping. Corked? What did this mean? Whatever it meant, it was obviously bad and I quickly followed suit.

We’ve all heard the expression no doubt at some point but what exactly, does the term “corked” mean?

Cork taint is most commonly produced when naturally-occurring airborne fungi are exposed to chlorine compounds, which are then converted into chloroanisole. The result is called TCA (feared winemaker speak) and is responsible for most of the cases of cork taint.

So what does it smell like and how do you detect it? Think fungi. People commonly describe it as a damp, dark moldy basement, moldy newspaper, wet cardboard or mushrooms. There is great debate as to whether you can detect cork taint by sniffing the cork (and I will let you be the judge) but there are two sure fire ways that do not:

1) Its an expensive wine and therefore less prone to cork taint. Sorry. TCA is a naturally occurring fungi and does not discriminate.

2) There are bits of cork in the wine or crystals on the cork. Nope. The bits of cork are likely caused by a dry cork and the crystals are formed as a result of tartrate crystals which form when tartaric acid and potassium combine in chilly conditions.

So how many wines are affected by cork taint?

There is much debate as to how many corks TCA effects. It really depends on who you ask. For example, the Cork Quality Council finds that TCA only affects less than 1% of all corks while the wine industry estimates between 3-5%. Yet, in 2005 Wine Spectator concluded that of 2800 bottles tested, 7% were affected. I would guess somewhere in the middel - it does not seem coincidental to me that each statistic conveniently benefits each.

My advice is to keep tasting and developing trust in your own judgement. Developing your palate is a journey and like life, sometimes we need to be reminded of the bad times to appreciate the good times.

Question...While reading about this topic I found several articles which debated as to whether smelling the cork could indicate a problematic wine . Does anyone think one way or the other on this?

Apr 20, 2011 at 3:08 PM

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Pairing Recipe: Stuffed Artichokes

Artichokes are notoriously difficult to match with wine because they contain a compound called cynarin, which makes everything taste sweet after eating it. However, scientists have also discovered that there are health benefits to cynarin. It reduces cholesterol, supports digestion and protects your liver.

Therefore, although they are more challenging to partner, here with ground beef and a thick sauce, they marry beautifully with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc. The velvety sauce, along with the thickness of the meat, contrasts nicely with the bold bite of the wine. The vegetal qualities of the strong-flavored artichoke mirror similar grassy qualities in the wine.

Ingredients:

• 6 artichokes
• 1 lb. ground chuck
• 1 large egg
• 3-4 tbsp Italian parsley, chopped
• 3 tbsp Pecorino Romano cheese, grated
• 3-4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 3-4 slices of bread, picked or pulled apart into small pieces
• Salt and pepper

Directions:

1. Rinse artichokes. Cut about 1.5 inches from top (point). Cut off stem and reserve. Artichokes should sit flat by removing stem. With kitchen shears, clip the end from each leaf to remove thorn. Rinse. With point down on a hard surface (counter top) press down to spread leaves. Place artichokes in bowl of lemon water to keep from turning brown.

2. Mix all stuffing ingredients together in large bowl with hands.

3. Tip: Sit down while you stuff artichokes. With forefinger, take a scoop of stuffing and push down into each leaf. Pack it in and press against leaf.

4. After all are stuffed, place in large pot with about 2 inches of water, olive oil, garlic and parsley. The reserved stems should be peeled down to the center core (which you can see on end) and placed in the liquid.

5. Sprinkle artichokes with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. As artichokes cooks, baste often and don’t let liquid evaporate. As liquid steams away, add more water. This liquid turns into a delicious sauce. Artichokes are done when you can pull a leaf off easily. Cook for at least an hour or until leaf pulls off and stuffing tastes done.

Recipe courtesy of Peter Frank, a Winetasting.com customer.

Recommended Wines:

Alazar 2008 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc Crisp and refreshing. Delicious stone fruit characteristics and explosive tropical aromas and flavors distinctively reflect Napa Valley fruit. Grassier characteristics blended with bright tropical notes and flavors. Silver, 2010 San Francisco International Wine Competition. [NAP975] $14.99/bottle

eco.love 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Made with fruit from top-notch vineyards in New Zealand's Marlborough region and displays the distinctive character for which the region is renowned: a striking intensity of kiwi and passion fruit aromas coupled with bright tropical fruit and citrus flavors. [WHI004] $14.99/bottle

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Apr 7, 2011 at 12:52 PM

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